Hidden Talent

Air New Zealand Inflight Magazine
October 2004
by Bob Campbell

Canterbury's stunning Waipara region is one of the unsung heroes of the wine industry. But its excellent reputation won't be kept secret for too much longer.
If I were to put my money where my mouth is and buy a vineyard, it would be in Waipara. I've even selected a perfect vineyard site on the range of hills that stand between Waipara and the coast. It's a sloping piece of land with a shelter belt of trees and a small creek that dries up in summer. I would grow pinot noir vines with a small amount of riesling.
Why wouldn't I choose a more fashionable wine region, such as Central Otago, Marlborough or Martinborough? Because unlike some 'super-star' wine regions, Waipara has yet to be 'discovered'.
Waipara doesn't have multi-million dollar homes clinging precariously to every vantage point. There is no BMW dealership in Waipara's main street. You can buy meat pies and delicious date scones at the local cafe, but you won't find trendy food. Waipara is a croissant-free zone. If you want to visit a beautiful, unspoiled wine region that is capable of making some of the best wines in the country, Waipara's the place to go.
Waipara is about 45 minutes drive north of Christchurch. Try not to exceed the speed limit - they don't need much of an excuse to collect revenue from visitors. I made a small contribution to a polite police officer. He rejected my excuse about being distracted by rolling farmland and snow-capped mountains.
Waipara's winemakers have only one thing in common: an enthusiasm for their region and absolute faith in its ability to make great wine. Apart from that, they're about as different as it is possible to be.
Take John McCaskey, founder of Glenmark Wines and one of the region's pioneers. John's every inch a farmer who can fix anything with No.8 fencing wire and an old fence baton or two.
Then there's Mathew Donaldson and Lynette Hudson, the dynamic winemaking partnership at Pegasus Bay. They approach winemaking with the same fanatical zeal that Salvador Dali applied to art.
Visit Mountford Estate Wines and talk wine with CP Lin, a scarily intelligent winemaker with strong views on every aspect of his art. Or meet Belinda Gould at Muddy Water and talk to someone who maintains a worldly perspective of winemaking by making wine in California during the Waipara off-season.
If you're lucky you might catch Danny Schuster of Daniel Schuster Wines when he's not globe-trotting as a wine consultant to some of the biggest names in the Californian and Italian wine industries. Alan McCokindale is another frantically busy winemaker with his own very successful label. Alan also makes wine for Canterbury House, the region's largest wine producer until the recent arrival of Montana Wines.
Waipara's wines clearly show a regional character that is the influence of climate and soil. They also show the indelible mark of the men and women who planted the vines, tended their crop of grapes and transformed juice into wine.
To fully appreciate Waipara wines you need to visit the region to kick the soil and meet the people who have helped shape the wines. You will have the chance to taste limited edition wines that are seldom seen outside the region. You will discover one of New Zealand's most precious wine regions, but please, let's keep it our secret...at least until I have bought my vineyard on the hill.

(Abridged version)

Editor's comment: Contrary to Bob Campbell's culinary experience and while it is likely one can't buy a croissant in Waipara it is far from being just a mecca for pie and scone lovers. Waipara Springs, Canterbury House and Pegasus Bay all boast restaurants with innovative chefs creating trendy menus. Otherwise, head 10 minutes back down the road to Amberley to The Nor' Wester, The Brew Moon or Pukeko Junction. Just in case you should want more than a pie and a scone!